East Taiwan from the SuHua Highway
The scent of ripening mangoes and pineapples, still clinging to the last remnants of morning mist, filled my lungs as I fought deeply for more oxygen. The temperature and humidity were rising, making each breath thicker and harder. Each downward thrust sent fire burning down my quad muscles. And just as I began to think I couldn’t push anymore, I passed the crest of this steep climb and saw the valley open up before me… just in time to see the heavens open up and cast a torrential downpour upon me
This is biking in Taiwan during the week of the Dragon boat festival. Oppressive heat and humidity, blazing sunshine, and wicked rainstorms, the 3 varieties of Taiwan weather are all represented… sometimes even all in the same day.
A little over 925 km (575 miles) in total, with over 13,000 meters (43,600 ft of elevation change), the ride around Taiwan can be challenging. Our group was over 50 people, with ages from 15 to 70, and did the route in 9 days.
I love biking. It is something that does triple duty in our lives, bringing exercise and fitness, providing transportation, and building and growing wealth. With that in mind, it should be no surprise that I chose to spend my school break on a bike. Besides, there are too few socially acceptable opportunities to wear tights on a daily basis (except perhaps for those special few that live double lives as super heroes.)
The ride around the island is something I’ve wanted to do for some time. In Taiwan it is nearly a rite of passage, something that fathers do with their sons and mothers do with their daughters, to share an achievement and to experience their country first hand. For me, it was an opportunity for some good riding, a chance to see Taiwan up close and personal, and to be immersed in Chinese culture since I didn’t speak English the whole trip.
The Ride Around Taiwan
Most of Western Taiwan is flat and developed. The first few days were highlighted by a never ending maze of intersections and stop lights. As far as I can tell, the only reason to bike this part is so you can write a blog post called “Biking Around Taiwan” instead of one called “Biking Half Way Around Taiwan.” Even so, over these days we were all able to get to know each other.
Somewhere on the West Coast
From here things looked up considerably. And literally. The east coast is steep, mountainous terrain, and the coming days would be spent climbing it
Taiwan’s Southwest Coast
Taiwan’s Southeast Coast
With rides through the East Rift Valley and through high mountain tea growing country, this is where Taiwan’s beauty really becomes apparent.
Tea Country
Rice Country
Rice Country
Country Road
Of course no ride around Taiwan would be possible without a ride along the SuHua Highway. Sheer rock faces on one side, a steep drop into the ocean on the other, and a dozen or more long dark tunnels along the way, this is no walk in the park. Rock falls could happen at any moment on one side, and there is little space between the road edge and the guard rail on the other
The SuHua Highway is a scenic piece of land like no other. It is also a major shipping corridor. Large trucks, semi-trailers, construction vehicles, and tourist buses cruise this route all day, and some drivers are less than happy to share the road with a few bikers. Just ask the bus driver that pushed me off the road (in a choice between his rear wheel well and the guard rail, I chose the guard rail)
Tunnel on the SuHua Highway
This trip was run and organized by a family that had ridden their bicycles around the world, and now organizes these tours (link is mostly in Chinese, but there is a doc in English with full details of the trip.) This was their 85th trip and they do their job well
Every rest stop was supplied with bananas, fresh sliced fruit (pineapple, mango, or watermelon), and lots of water. Often we also had a snack or meal that was a specialty from that region or town, whether it be ice cream, a certain special kind of rice, glutinous rice snacks (really good!), or red bean drink (really gross!)
Every night while we slept, our bikes were adjusted and tuned, and every day while we rode there was somebody at the next route change to point out the way. They also carried all of our gear, a definite luxury
The hotels along the way were an interesting mix. Some nights we spent in a backwater place that needed some love and attention, and other nights (usually after a hard ride) we found ourselves at a little oasis with a heated outdoor pool or one of Taiwan’s great hot springs.
Hotel Pool
One hotel was so proud of their customer service policy that they even put it on their towels ;)
The FU Hotel
We also had several stops along the way for touristy highlights. Here are 3 of my favorites
Spaceship Museum at the Tropic of Cancer
Straddling the Tectonic Plates that Made Taiwan
Buddhist Temple
Overall it was a great trip. I was able to see Taiwan in a new light, and make some new friends along the way
A GPS Snapshot of One of My Favorite Days
Support Van
$:
Bike trip (includes bike, meals, hotels, red bike shirt, everything): 25,000 TWD (~$830)
Superman tights: 1,300 TWD (~$45)
2 scoops of Haagen-Daz ice cream in Taipei: 240 TWD (~$8)
2 scoops of hand made ice cream in rural middle of nowhere Taiwan: 20 TWD (~$0.67)
Pro-grade Chamois Cream
: $20 (worth every penny!)
Sounds super fun. In my youth I rode through Europe for 77 days. Camping all the way. I am heading back now on the plane but more luxury this time. Been 34 years.
Wow, 77 days of biking and camping sounds fantastic
Are you biking on this trip as well? We would like to do some biking around Iceland and Ireland, and are also thinking of walking St. James Way at some point
yo cracker.! how bout if you do a group ride that ur blog readership can sighn up for? sort of like mmm did with his trip to honduras.
I love this idea! I think this would be great for a coast-to-coast ride across the US
IM IN FOR SURE. but I’m too lazy to plan it. need a co like you had in taiwan to do the dirty work for us?
For me, it is probably 2018 at the earliest. Plenty of time to plan ;)
A friend of mine drove the support van for a Seattle to Maine bike trip a few years ago. Looked like an awesome trip.
TIAWAN is more enticing for me, I’ve been all over america. i called today I’m working on getting lined up to do the trip you did. I’m gonna assume that you did your due diligence on price shopping and this co is the best bargain. Any cracker groupies want to join its all good hit me up.
So, did you use your F-you money for your stay in the FU Hotel?
Unfortunately all of our F-you dollars have signed lifetime contracts as indentured servants. So we funded this with their offspring instead ;)
Brilliant!
and I was silly to think it could have been anything less. ;)
Just want you to know that we really enjoy and appreciate your inspirational posts.
Thank you Jason!
Excellent write up of the bike tour! Congrats!
-Amy (from 84T).
I’m thinking about doing this tour in September. Would you recommend this to someone who is usually not active? I’m really worried that my endurance won’t last for 9 days. Trying to change to a healthier lifestyle and hoping this can be a good start.
Hi Julia
I think it depends on personality. The tour group and other riders do a great job of being supportive and motivating. Nobody’s endurance lasts 9 days, everybody is a little sore and tired. It is the fun and excitement and force of will that keeps people going
Our group had many people that weren’t normally very active, and many of them did great. On the other hand, one person had a bit of an emotional challenge and quit after the 4th day, which was the first day with big hill climbs. After she quit, her 80 year old father continued the trip with the rest of us
There are almost 2 months between now and September, and I would recommend riding almost daily between now and then, building up towards being able to ride several hours at a time with a few hills. There is plenty of time to prepare
Good luck! This trip is a lot of fun!
Jeremy
Thank you so much for the insight. I will be looking forward to the tour =)
Looks awesome, I know some people that have biked around Taiwan and I’d love to do this in the future. Need to do a lot more training that’s for sure.
Thank you for the feedback about this biking tour. I am thinking about joining them in Feb. and wondering if you had your own bike or you used theirs. A 30 lb bike seems a bit heavy to me. What is your thought on that.
Hi Julie
Some people used their own bike, although most used the provided bicycles, myself included. This has some advantages… the staff is familiar with the bikes, have all the spare parts, they are well maintained, they are designed for touring (riding posture & gear ratios), etc…
Unless you plan on racing, the weight of the bike isn’t as important as you would think. Even a Tour de France bike is 15 lbs, and unless you are an elite athlete you are unlikely to notice much difference. And if you are, then this tour is probably not for you
Either way though, it would be a fun trip
Cheers
Jeremy
So I did it in February! What a wonderful tour. Thanks for your blog.
Great post and loved the photos! Thank you!!
So cool! We are thinking of riding around taiwan…
There is no time like the present
Hi GCC,
Still making my way through your back catalogue ;-)
Wanted to say how much I envy your adventure. I did something similar last year, where I cycled from my home in Nottingham to my parents in the Lake District here in the UK (~200 miles) spread over 5 days, including a rest day. Was great fun and I plan on doing it again some time.
When I finally reach FI, I would love to do similar trips as you have done.
That sounds like a nice trip. I have some ambition to do some longer hiking and biking trips, but those probably have to wait until the little guy is older
Hi GCC, we are planing to bike from north to south on the west side in Taiwan. We want to cycle with leisure. Cycling with a group can be quite challenging.
We are looking for a reliable company to make the necessary arrangement.
Please recommend .
I would contact the great team at Bike Family (linked in the post) and see what they recommend. The trip I did with them was quite leisurely
Enjoy!
This is awesome. My local biking org is planning a trip to Taiwan for exactly the same tour. Can’t wait for it!
When are you guys going ming? I’m picking some dates for myself and would be cool to be w some likeminded americans.
which season / month of the year you recommend to do that kind of trip ?
Spring/Fall are probably best. Peak summer is very hot and humid and winter can bring cold rains.
you think this trip is suitable for a beginner level ?
i finally pulled the trigger, I’m leaving for taiwan next week.
Hi Curry Cracker! is there a best way to navigate the island, clockwise or anti-clockwise? and if I may, how are the road in the mountain for a road bike, like the number 21?
Thank you so much!
Hello there, would you happen to recall the name of the hotel with the heated hot springs pool? We’re hoping to do a similar tour but hopefully independently…
Sorry, I don’t have the itinerary any more, so no idea where we stayed. But… there are a ton of hot spring resorts in Taiwan, so plenty of options.